WHITE RHONES
Most white Rhônes from the north are either Marsanne or a Marsanne/Roussanne blend.
Total area grows about 80% Marsanne to 20% Roussanne. Marsanne is considered to be
a cépage with considerable ageing potential, whilst Roussanne, being lighter and
more precocious, is sometimes blended in to give a bit more freshness to the Marsanne.
Roussanne on its own is considered good for keeping not more than 3 years. Having
said that, there is also the complication of whether to oak or not to oak. Generally
speaking, Marsanne wines, or those with a high Marsanne content are oaked, but rarely
with new oak, with some producers using barriques or, more commonly, demi-muids up
to seven years old.
This causes a lot of variations in the wines and the style of winemaking from one
producer to another varies enormously, even within the same appellation. Personally,
I have found most of the Marsanne dominated wines prone to oxidation - but this could
happen after one year or ten - I can't give you the explanation why.
I went on a press trip to the Rhône Valley recently and the best whites I tasted
on my trip was a 2006 white Crozes Hermitage from Alain Graillot - 80% Marsanne and
20% Roussanne and about 95% oaked of which about 5% was new - very fresh and zingy
- no malo so instantly quaffable, and on the other hand, a 2005 white Hermitage from
Cave Fayolle Fils et Fille - 100% Marsanne, old oak, big depth of fruit and lots
of character, really quite delicious now - but how will it be in 10 years time? I
think that's a risk. So my advice is - if you have any white Rhônes - drink them
sooner rather than later.
