RSJ Restaurant
For almost 30 years, Nigel Wilkinson has run this bastion of contemporary cuisine,
but above all has created a wine list specialising in wines from the Loire Valley
with all the enthusiasm of a zealot!
This restaurant has been a long time specialist in wines from the Loire Valley and
whilst there is a tiny selection from elsewhere, you will have to content yourself
in mainly furthering your knowledge of the wines from this remarkably diverse region
of France. There is a detailed explanation at the beginning of the list about grape
varieties, vintages and peculiarities of each part of the region, so that you will
be fully familiar with what the Loire Valley has to offer. Vintage information is
particularly important, since there are enormous variations in quality between one
year and the next and even between one part of the region and another, so you should
read this section carefully. And even if you find that Loire wines don’t exactly
turn you on, you do have the certain knowledge that by and large, these wines offer
exceptional value for money.
The list starts off with a bringing together of House wines and new arrivals, but
all these are repeated in the main body of the list. The list is divided regionally
- the whites from the various regions first and then the reds. The first section
deals with the dry whites from Anjou and Saumur and quality wines start at £16.95
with a 2009 Saumur Blanc from Domaine des Hauts de Sanziers although there are plenty
of others under £30. As a contrast, a 1996 Saumur Blanc Les Cormiers from J. P. Chevalier
at £39.95 shows just how well this appellation can age. There are five Savennières
on the list, with the pick of the bunch being Eric Morgat’s 2003 L’Enclos at £35.95.
An excellent vintage, too. Dry whites from Touraine lists Vouvrays and Touraine
Sauvignons with a little run of wines from Societé Huët to add some real class to
the section with the 1995 “Le Haut Lieu” at £49.95 looking to have the best price/quality
ratio. The demi-secs follow, mainly from Huët, culminating with the 1959 “Le Haut
Lieu” at £125, but you won’t go wrong with Vouvray demi-sec Cuvée des Fondraux 2004
from Didier Champalou at £24.95. The wines from the Nivernais (Sancerre, Pouilly
Fumé, etc.) have some top class producers, none better than Didier Dagneneau, whose
5 star Pouilly Fumé “Pur Sang” 2007 at £47.95 is very reasonably priced if a bit
on the young side. Alternatively (and unusually) in this section is a Chardonnay
from Alphonse Mellot, one of the region’s top Sancerre producers, a Vin de Pays des
Côteaux Charitois “les Penitents” 2006 at £29.95.
On to the reds, this time going back towards the mouth of the Loire. So we start
off with red Nivernais, in which Roger Champault’s oak aged Sancerre Rouge “Côte
de Champtin” 2006 produced from 50 year old vines stands out at £37.50. In Anjou-Saumur,
Thierry Germain’s Saumur-Champigny “Domaine des Roches Neuves” 2008 at £22.50 is
wonderful drinking value, and J.P.Chevalier’s “Le Grand Clos”, made only in good
years, is available in the 1995 vintage at £45.00. In Chinon, there is a choice
of cuvées from Philippe Alliet, one of the top producers in the appellation, with
his racy 2008 “Tradition” looking the best value at £24.95. In St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil
and Bougeuil, Frédéric Mabileau’s top cuvee “Eclipse” 2002 is is beautifully balanced
but comes out at a rather stiff £45.00, but his elegant 2008 “Les Rouilliès” is easy
quaffing wine and good value at £19.75. Away from Cabernet Franc, in the Eastern
Touraine, Puzelat’s quizzically named “In Cot We Trust” 2007 (he’s obviously been
reading the backs of dollar bills!) is produced from juicy Malbec and at only £19.95
must be worth a punt.
It’s in the sweet wine department that this list really comes into its own. A superb
selection of Côteaux du Layon wines from various producers including the renowned
“sugar hunters” such as Patrick Baudouin and Jo Pithon, although the wines listed
from these two producers are not in the best vintages. 2003 was a top vintage for
sweet whites and here J. Y. Lebreton’s Côteaux de l’Aubance “Ambre des Roches des
Rochelles” at £35.95 a bottle looks a better bet. In older, top quality vintages,
there is Bonnezeaux, Ch. de Fesles 1985 at £95 a full bottle and an extraordinary
quartet of Vouvray Moelleux from Huët in the first class 1996, 1990, 1989 and 1959
vintages at prices from £42.50 to £150.
Sparkling wines are not forgotten, either There is a classic, creamy 2001 vintage
Vouvray Brut from Huët at £39.95 but perhaps more interesting could be the Montlouis
Non-Dosé “Triple Zero” from Jacky Blot at £29.95.
There are just 9 wines on the list that do not come from the Loire Valley, including
three Champagnes and three Beaujolais and the “New World Selection” consists of a
Waipura West Sauvignon and Riesling from New Zealand. I don’t know why they bother.
There are a few Loire halves, both red and white, but nothing really of outstanding
merit.
Best Value White: Vouvray demi-sec “Cuv?e des Fondraux” 2004 from Didier Champalou
at £24.95.
Best Value Red: Saumur-Champigny “Domaine des Roches Neuves” 2008 from Thierry Germain
at £22.50
Rich Man’s Bargain: Vouvray Moelleux “Le Mont 1er Trie” 1989 from Huët at £99.75
RSJ Restaurant 33 Coin Street London SE1 9NR
Telephone: 0207 928 4554
Fax: 0207 928 9768
Email: tom.king@rsj.uk.com
Web: www.rsj.uk.com
