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WINE BEHIND THE LABEL

Jia - London SW7

 

Restaurants come and restaurants go and sometimes Chinese restaurants seem to come and go faster than others. So it was with some relief that we discovered a new Chinese restaurant near to South Kensington station – a facility that had been notably lacking in the past.

 

It looked pretty neat from the outside – clean and modern with black wooden tables and white napkins reasonably spaced from each other. The restaurant is quite small but there is an upstairs eating area which makes a change from having the overflow in the basement.

 

There are two separate and distinct menus – one for lunch time and one for the evening. The lunch time menu is heavily weighted with dim sum plates but there are also a limited number of enhanced vegetable, rice and noodle dishes with either meat or fish.

 

Dim Sum dishes are divided between steamed, fried and Cheung Fun. Steamed and fried dim sums are mostly priced under £3 and the Cheung Fun dishes between £3 and £4. Vegetarian dishes are clearly marked.

 

We sampled a number of dim sum dishes – for the most part they were beautifully cooked and tasty. Two things that the restaurant is keen to point out is no MSG and no preservatives in the food. It certainly tasted that way. The variety of dishes is pretty interesting, too. There is no pretence about being any sort of regional cuisine – inspiration is drawn from a wider Asian net with some dishes originating from Japan and Malaysia as well as regional and offshore China.

 

With some Jasmine Lotus tea spectacularly served in a huge wine glass and a couple of Tsing Tao beers, we set about the dim sums with gusto. We tucked in to Wasabi Prawn Dumplings (spicy), Scallop Dumplings (scallop and prawn in a spinach pastry), Coriander Crab Crystal Dumplings (crabmeat, king prawn and coriander in a translucent jelly), King Prawn Cheung Fun (wrapped in a smooth rice noodle pasta), Pan Fried Lamb Dumplings (minced lamb, water chestnuts, spring onions, ginger and black pepper), Chicken Gyoza (Japanese style minced chicken and sweetcorn dumplings), Honey Roast Pork Cheung Fun (wrapped in a smooth noodle pasta) and Pork and Shrimp Shu Mai (seasoned ground pork, chopped shrimp and shitake mushroom dumpling). All deliciously cooked. The only disappointment was the Spare Ribs in Black Bean Sauce which was rather insipid although it was supposed to have some chilli in the sauce.

The price for all this came to £36.10 for two plus a 10% “Optional” service charge which brought it up to £39.70.

 

At dinner prices range from £4.50 to £9.50 for appetizers and from £9.80 to £38.00 for mains. A second meal here consisted of a Salt and Pepper Soft Shell Crab Salad with Chilli Mayonnaise and served in a light cream sauce (£9.50) and a Mango Seafood Spring Roll filled with prawns and sweetcorn and served with a mango sauce and crispy seaweed (£6.50), both deliciously cooked. We followed this with Malaysian Style Lamb Curry (£9.80) – minced lamb with a mild curry and Stir Fried Scallops, King Prawns with Lily Bulbs and Asparagus (£12.50) – a beautiful combination cooked à point. As an accompaniment we went slightly exotic by choosing the Typhoon Shelter Bay Chilli and Garlic Prawn Vermicelli (£8.80) but we could have had Jasmine Steamed Rice for £2.80.

 

With three beers between us the total including service came to £63.70 – a pretty good price for a more than satisfactory Chinese meal. There is a wine list provided by Hallgarten’s and there are a number of suitable wines on it to accompany Chinese food, but it has always been our long established practice to stick to beer or tea unless you go to a really specialist wine-oriented restaurant such as Hakkasan.

 

In conclusion, there is no doubt that Jia is a serious restaurant with a specialist dim sum chef and a specialist wok chef. The food is tasty and succulent, even if not every dish succeeds it provides worthwhile value for money which is something which is getting more and more difficult to find – especially in London.

 

Jia – 1, Harrington Road, London SW7 3ES

 

Tel: 020 7584 7188

 

E: jiarestaurant@btconnect.com

 

Open: All week 12 noon – 11 p.m. Dim Sum served 12 noon – 5 p.m.

 

Credit Cards: All Major

 

Ratings:

 

Food                             41

Wine                           5

Service                       10

Ambience                 6

Value for Money   14

 

Total                           76