Wine Odyssey - Recent reports
Our intrepid Neil Fairlamb reports from Romania
A press trip to Romania in March 2011, excellently organised by Rumpus Communications
for the Romanian Winegrowers association, was an eye-opener into the potential of
this large country. We visited eight operations, some like Halewood and Recas on
a huge scale, others like Stirbey and Wine Princess small and individual. I had
heard reports of good Pinot Noir; there was, but not quite the winner of the tour.We
tasted varieties barely known abroad - Cramposie, Feteasca Alba and Regala, Tamaioasa
Romaneasca, Novac, Negru de Dragasani and Cadarca - and one in particular, Feteasca
Neagra, (the name means Black Maiden)which could launch Romania back onto the international
scene, perhaps if marketed by style not variety.
DOMENIILE SAHATENI at Urlati was an estate with an attractive and thoughtful winemaker,
Aurelia Visinescu. This was a former cooperative winery that received an injection
of EU money in 2006 (as have several wineries in Romania). Grapes come from an area
of 60 hectares across three villages and currently 500 tonnes of grapes are processed.
Intelligent winemaking was evident. Pinot Noir is difficult to cultivate in the vineyard;
cold soaking benefits this variety, with racking and return preferable to pumping
over. Feteasca Neagra is a vigorous vine but has diverse genetic composition that
needs to be sorted. Romanian oak is sometimes used but the tradition of cooperage
is under threat and most growers prefer French or American oak which is only a little
more expensive. There seemed nothing wrong with Romanian oak; like Hungarian oak
it can yield an initial sweetness but it seemed to be considered that in prolonged
ageing it dried the wine too much. Production on this estate is over 200,000 bottles
yearly. Feteasca Alba was floral with a herbal aniseed twist and a nice texture,
finishing balance; it blends well with other varieties. The Tamaiaosa Romaneasca
was intensely textured, Traminer-like, with a perfumed fullness ideal for Thai and
Asian food. Forget promoting the variety on the label except on the back-call the
wine Time for Thai. Ironically the Asian market is primarily for red wine. The reds
here include Anima Pinot Noir and the Red Artisan blend. The Cabernet seems to need
time to soften with more structure and hardness evident than fleshy fruit. The reds
can spend up to two years in wood and I might query this. Feteasca Neagra is chocolatey,
plumy, ripe with soft tannins and an easy finish; this is clearly the ambassador
wine to introduce Romanian reds. The Pinot Noir needs more work to conserve fruit
with less barrique but the wine making is intelligent and questioning, with a clear
emphasis on structure and preserving minerality, and the future bright.
SERVE is an important domaine with estates in Ceptura and Cogealac. It is run by
Mihaela Tyrel de Poix, the Romanian widow of a dynamic Corsican wine estate owner
who died earlier this year. 2010 was a difficult year for whites here with problems
of ripening: they are fresh, lively and aromatic but without the fruity textures
of 2009. This is not a bad thing, perhaps, as Romanian whites can be a little softly
under-bellied. So the aromatics of Feteasca Alba were there but in a sharp, crisp
style, quite bracing. Blending Sauvignon and Rhine Riesling in Terra Romana 2010
was enterprising. An intriguing, complex nose with a mixture of the floral and the
aromatic; 20% barrel fermentation filled out the taste nicely. The same blend is
given more oak in a pricier Cuvee Amaury; the wine can take it and it rolled on the
tongue but there may be too much oak here. Their basic Pinot Noir Chevalier de Dyonis
at 1.5 euros export price is excellent: the 2010 smoky, spicy, soft, gutsy; the 2009
more cherry fruited but with good acidity. Both sell well in French Canada; they
should in UK too. The Pinot Noir rosé 2010 was delicately done and very versatile.
Feteasca Neagra works well here on its own and in blends. The single varietal 2008
based on a parcel of mature vines acquired in 2001 was in the amarone style with
12 months in barrique, 35% new. Gorgeous perfume and textures. Blended with Cabernet
and Merlot in Cuvée Charlotte 2007 the effect is to take off some of the overt fruit
of the Neagra and give a firmer, drier style with more structure. Cuvee Alexandru
2007 was the last vintage (the vines are now grubbed up) of a 40 year old Cabernet
Sauvignon vineyard: integrated, ripe and dense yet freshly textured. A revelation.
By far the biggest UK player on the Romanian wine scene is HALEWOOD of Liverpool
who have a sparkling wine cellar Rhein Cellar in Azuga in the Carpathian mountains
( only 100,000 bottles a year, all champagne method and all drunk domestically,
the Extra Brut a classic Pinot Noir/Chardonnay mix but more Prosecco-like than champagne)but
at Urlateanu Mansion Cellar a range of well-made, rather commercially soft, wines
was shown from the Dealu Mare, Murfatlar and Transylvanian regions. The company
makes more than 8 million bottles annually. A conscientious wine maker, Lorena Deaconu,
who rather lamented the isolation of so much of Romanian winemaking with few opportunities
to share ideas. UK distribution is patchy but Direct Wines take a few of their best.
Residual sugar levels are rather too high, perhaps, but that is the marketing decision.
Alcohol levels are comfortably 12.5% or more. Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon
are competently done-the SVS Sauvignon 2010 from Transylvania with a good bite of
flavour but does one want 5.5 gms sugar in one`s Sauvignon?- but perhaps the most
interesting whites came from adding a proportion of indigenous grapes like Feteasca
Alba and Tamaioasa Romaneasca which give a floral, perfumed character and where this
is just off-dry the results are pleasing. Pinot Noir produced wines that caused much
debate: the five wines including one rosé were pleasantly soft and textured with
supple tannins and correct profiles but somehow did not have the aroma or taste of
Burgundian Pinot Noir. Colina Piatra Alba 2009 was perfumed, rich and fruity, a wine
of some pretension, but at 9.6 gms residual sugar too sweet. The top Pinot Noir,
Kronos 2009 raised in French oak, was drier and better balanced but needed at least
another year to integrate. Vitis Metamorfosis Merlot 2009 and The Monastery Merlot
2009 suited the sweeter style of reds, the former with some assertive French oak
that will balance out. As with a 2010 tasted in the vineyards, Shiraz is a surprising
success-intense,spicy, plumy flavours and sultry rich textures that don`t need much
oak-SVS Adrian 2009 and 2010 are worth seeking out. Cantus Primus was a fine Cabernet
Sauvignon 2007, beautifully mature with 18 months in barrique and ripe tannins.
Hyperion Feteasca Negra 2009 again showed the brilliance of this variety: rich, textured,
blackberry-fruit with a light balance on the finish to offset the richness. The American
oak here emphasised the natural sweetness of the varietal.
Over from Azuga to Samburesti was a 200km epic through the Carpathian mountains past
Dracula`s castle at Bran. We arrived in lovely spring sunshine coming down from the
snow to Castel Bolovan. VINARTE is a three-pronged company formed in 1998, the
32 ha site by the river Olt here the smallest of the three estates and concentrating
only on red wines. 120,000 bottles are produced here; the other domaines in the south
about 1,500,000 bottles. Cabernet and Merlot flourish here, the former 90% of production.
Mainly French oak is used. I found the wines from Mehedinti near the Danube and
Dealu Mare rather less impressive than others on the trip. Riesling Italico was
disappointing and Sauvignon not well controlled, getting too ripe, and there was
a feral, unfruity finish to the reds, but from Castel Bolovan itself the Cabernet
has a glossy new oak appeal, if they can contain the fruit beneath it. The Soare
2006 was an excellent fruity Cabernet for lunch, ripe and supple.
The PRINCE STIRBEY estate at Dragasani hosted an excellent visit; the current owners
combine historic Romanian and South Tyrolean wine family traditions. The idyllic
location of the 20 ha vineyards and winery, reclaimed from the state after decades
of communist expropriation since 1949, reminded me of the visit to Schloss Proschwitz
in Saxony and the pride of restored independence was very evident. Unforced elegance
with respect for indigenous style was the character of the tasting. Total production
is only about 100,000 bottles; the level of evident care is outstanding. The energetic
Schwabian winemaker, Oliver Bauer, crackled with enthusiasm, reasoned argument and
punchy point-making. The Spumant 2008 from the Cramposie varietal was the first
ever of its kind; by far the best sparkler of the tour it had a filigree elegance
and penetration. As a still wine, Cramposie, the biggest varietal planted on the
estate, had a unique character: minerally dry,almost salty, piquantly aromatic and
food-friendly with pronounced acidity. Feteasca Regala is a more expressive varietal;
wild and cultivated yeasts help give a floral wine which can take 22 months in oak
in its Genius Loci 2007 version, the acid balance helping to control the oak taste
The grape juice is slightly brown, from the natural tannins in the skins. The reserve
could be called a rich Romanian “Chardonnay” style. Tamaioasa Romaneasca 2010 had
a strong projection of floral fruit but a fine, crisp balance; it is also successful
as a semi-sweet wine where the finish lifts rather than falls away. This variety
is grown on cold clay soil which helps keep moisture and freshness in a hot summer.
Cabernet Sauvignon is cleverly made into a fresh, lively rosé . Novac is a local
red wine varietal; indeed nowhere else is it grown in the world. It has a lovely
strawberry fruitiness tempered by oak; it could be served cool for added piquancy.
Negru de Dragasani is a varietal with immediately plumy, soft and rich textures,
a mouthful of easy fruit, perhaps even plusher than the Feteasca Negra-both at 14%+.
Merlot is a great success here, the basic 2007 very ripe and mellow, with freshness,
nothing too forced; while the Reserva 2007 had 2 years in Romanian oak (supposed
to be producing drier wines than French or American oak but not here)and was complex,
and powerful but preserved the sweet fruit and the long finish. Superb local lamb
was the ideal accompaniment. A visit marked by the graciousness of tradition and
respectful but innovative winemaking.
RECAS near Timisoara was a technically tremendously impressive operation run by Philip
Cox who had first worked for Halewood. Huge volumes of sound wine at very low prices
(1€ a bottle export) is clearly a winning formula and the current Co-op offer of
2 for £8 includes three wines-a Wolfhouse Chardonnay, Rosé and Cabernet Sauvignon
-that are good value. The Chardonnay is pineappley and the Cabernet a touch green
but both will be quaffed with pleasure. The basic Pinot Grigio is on similar offer
from Tesco and the Pinot Noir will be a mild, soft winner for Sainsbury`s. Wine made
to a price and a formula; it`s cleverly done. The Sauvignon is crisp enough and has
a socially-conscious label using disabled children`s artwork. Their best white Solo
Quinta is a serious aromatic and balanced blend of five varieties that shows what
they are capable of at best, while in reds La Putere Cabernet Sauvignon at only 2.5€
is less filtered, has more barrique and more subtlety. Cuvée Uberland 2009, a blend
of Cabernet, Merlot and Feteasca Negra, was rich and soft in the amarone style.
WINE PRINCESS at Paulis is the name of a wine-tourism complex owned and run by the
dynamic Balla Geza. Hunting lodges encourage visitors-many from nearby Hungary-to
come and take their sport and drink some super red wines that just cry out for the
hunters` platter of smoked and cured meats (including pigs brains-but not bear`s
paw or penis as threatened!) and magnificent goulash which regaled us. Balla just
bursts out of his skin with enthusiasm. There are some white wines, including a
bracing mineral Mustoasa de Maderat, and a first year Sauvignon that just needs
to be drier (not 6gms residual) but life here is red. The first four were all from
the Cadarca varietal and I was immediately hooked. Cherry fruits, fresh, delicately
perfumed, invigorating. The basic 2009 in 3rd use barrels at 3€ export price was
my favourite for its delicacy with the 2006 Reserve, 25% in barrique, wonderfully
spicy and pungent but mellow an ideal foil. Here is a variety with something definite
to say. Pinot Noir produced much debate; some of the vines are 65 years old but there
is some question whether they are true French Pinot Noir clones; the 2010, not a
bad year here, was vigorous and tannic, the 2006 soft-textured, rich with drying
oak on the finish. Merlot 2006 was mature and soft but with some firmness holding
it up. Burgund (Lemberger)was enormously flavourful, spicy, plummy with tremendous
mouth-feel. Blends are important here. Cuvee Princess 2006 had 40% each Cabernet
and Pinot Noir and 20% Cadarca; and Cuvee Balada substitutred Merlot for Pinot in
the same proportion as the other. I preferred the former, the Pinot seeming to contribute
a freshness and acid to lighten the cedary, firmly tannic structure. Cabernet on
its own here can be a bit green but the 2003 Grand Selection , the first vintage,
was all coffee, chocolate ripeness and niceness. Proper red wines, none with more
than 3gms residual sugar. A rousing way to end our excellent visit.
Neil Fairlamb
