Sonia Blech savours Flaveurs after a let-down from the big one in Valence.
After a very disappointing drive to the Vallée des Merveilles where all trips to
palaeontological sites and ancient caves were cancelled because of the atrocious
weather forecast (fourth failed attempt to visit them!) , we decided to make our
way to Valence where we hoped to be able to stay and eat at the famous 3 star Michelin
establishment Pic. We had wanted to be able to interview for these columns Anne-Sophie
Pic for some time, being the first woman to achieve 3 Michelin stars, but she really
wasn’t interested in seeing us ( her PR department telling us that she was “too busy”
on the day we wanted to come) - and not for the first time either. It seemed to us
therefore, that rather than spending the best part of €1,000 on dinner, bed and breakfast
at Pic, we ought to try out a new restaurant in the town which after only a couple
of years or so, had already achieved one Michelin star and stay in a comfortable
hotel in the centre of town well within walking distance of this new restaurant.
We found it, lost in one of the back street of the Centre Historique of Valence,
near the main Place des Clercs - a small restaurant called Flaveurs (so you will
need to book): simply and elegantly attired. The warm welcome made us feel straight
at home and we sat down ready to enjoy ourselves after our horrendous drive.
In our new gastronomic panoramic world where many of the starred chefs search frantically
for new ideas of how to make more foam bubbles; how to use chemical processes to
transform food, let us say from a carrot to a chocolate lookalike; or other contortions
in triptych, the restaurant Les Flaveurs comes as an appeasing balm to the weary
gastronome who wants to enjoy his food made of natural products and which express
exactly what they are at their best.
We plumped for the l’Instant menu at €51 a head and we loved:
The foie gras - slightly pan-cooked served with melon and green anis
The fricassée of lobster and langoustines - delicately cooked and served with green
asparagus and its own concentrated juices
The brill - lightly poached in a concentrated shellfish broth flavoured delicately
And to crown it all: a rainbow (display) of desserts and patisseries ranging from
mousses, sorbets ice-creams and petits fours prepared to help the digestion and refresh
A bottle of Chante-Perdrix Condrieu and half a bottle St. Joseph from Chèze completed
the enjoyment - total bill - €171.50 and with the €125 for the B & B at out hotel
we reckoned we saved €600 by not staying at Pic. Tant pis, as they say.
In all, a memorable evening. Well done and many thanks to chef Baptiste Poinot.
Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Saturday. Closed 1 to 24 August, 1-7 January.
Credit cards: Visa, Mastercard
Wine List 15
Value for Money 15
Dans un monde gastronomique o bien de grands chefs toils vivent dans un nouveau
monde quasi artificiel d'experiences culinaires quasi chimiques, en tuves ou autre,
pour realiser bulles d'air, mousses minimalistes ou declinaison de carottes au autres
en trois formules, le restaurant Les Flaveurs a Valence offre un baume rafraichissant
au gastronome qui veut deguster les produits naturels au meilleur de leur expression
sans sublimation there de ce qu\ils ne sont pas.!
Nous avons ador le foie gras legerement poel au melon et anis vert
La fricasse peine cuite de homard et langoustines servie avec asperges vertes
et leur propre sucs intenses de cuisson
La barbue delicatement cuite a la nage dans un bouillon de coquillages delicatement
parfum a l'ail. Et pour couronner le tout:-,
L'arc en ciel de desserts legers et fins allant de la patisserie fine aux mousses,
glaces et sorbets legers, digestifs et raffaichissants. Un repas memorable. Bravo
et Merci Chef Baptiste Poinot.