ANDREW EDMUNDS
Andrew Edmunds is a dealer in antique prints, having set up shop at 44 Lexington
Street in London’s Soho district many years ago. In 1987, he had the chance to buy
the next door wine bar, but as he did not need to expand premises for his antique
print dealing business, he decided to find a useful and profitable home for his wine
cellar and so he bought out the wine bar tenant and started his eponymously-named
restaurant.
The restaurant is located on the ground floor and basement – tables are small and
cramped together and so it could hardly be called the most comfortable restaurant
in London. Andrew did not set out to woo the smart set, but a lot of smart people
soon found out that this was a restaurant that gave value for money, particularly
in the wine list. But not only are the wines keenly priced, but the choices available
on this ever-changing list is quite remarkable and to even the most experienced wine
drinker, educational. I have been there several times and it was the first place
that I ever drank some Bellet outside of Provence and the first time I drank the
excellent Alaia Dehesa de Rubiales – ever!
The wine list is constantly changing, so what is written about here may not be available
when you go, but it is a list you can trust in the full knowledge that you are not
going to be ripped off. Andrew obviously is a buyer of “parcels” whether it be from
a wine merchant or at auction as well as buying smart wines en primeur and the fact
that he owns the freehold of the property helps to keep the prices down as well.
The philosophy is to put a cash margin of £10 to £15 on the current replacement cost
of each bottle plus 12.5% which goes to the staff as a service charge.
The wine list is basically divided into two parts. There is the regular wine list
of some 30 whites and 40 reds which presumably have some sort of continuity and then
there is an additional wine list which presumably deals with the parcels. Although
generally listing more expensive wines, the additional wine list presents the best
bargains.
The regular wine list kicks off with about half a dozen choices of fizz, including
a Nyetimber 2000 at £37 and a Vouvray Pétillant Brut from Gaston Huet at £26. House
Champagne (presently Gallimard Brut Réserve) is only £25 a bottle and £5.50 for a
125ml. glass, remarkable when you find that in most London restaurants, a glass of
House Champagne is nearer to £10. White wine drinkers who like Loire and Burgundy
wines are well catered for with André Dezat’s Sancerre 2007 very fairly priced at
£22.50. But the Anjou Chauvine 2006 from Domaine Richou looks intriguing as an alternative
at £18.50 whilst Burgundy lovers might plump for the Chablis 1er cru Montmains from
Christian Adine at only £24.50 (£13.50 a half bottle). More scantily represented
on the list are wines from Alsace, Germany, Austria and Italy, with Brundlmayer’s
Langenloiser Grüner Veltliner 2007 coming out at £21 looking to be the best value.
Four wines from Australia, two from South Africa and one from New Zealand, is the
New World white wine selection but there are usually others on the blackboard “specials”.
Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2007, from the Clare Valley at £21 stands out here
for quality and value. There are two rosés listed, Massaya from the Lebanon at £17
and François Cotat’s Sancerre at £23 – both good value.
The reds are less dominated by France than the whites and with only two from Burgundy
and one from Bordeaux, there is more scope for regional wines. As usual, there is
good value from the South West of France and Alain Brumont’s Ch. Boucasse Madiran
2002 stands out at £20.50. Roger Sabon’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape ‘Les Olivets’ 2006 at
£27.50 (£14.00 for halves) is worth looking at, too. Spain is well represented with
six reds (no whites) and the above-mentioned Alaia Dehesa de Rubiales 2005 at £15
is remarkable value. The USA also makes its entry on the red wine list with Landmark
‘Steel Plow’ Sonoma Valley Syrah 2005 at £27 and Willamette Valley Vineyards Oregon
Pinot Noir 2006 at £29.50 the best of the bunch. There are two good value wines from
Australia – Penley Estate’s Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 at £18.50 and Pirie ‘South’
Pinot Noir from Tasmania at £20.
But it is the Additional Wine List that really catches the eye. There are some really
big hitters here and some of the prices are really to be seen to be believed for
a London restaurant. Meursault ‘En la Barre’ 1999 from François Jobard at £38.50
and a MAGNUM of Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Baudriotte from Ramonet at £95 are outstanding
value for money and a quartet of Chardonnays from the cult Californian producer,
Brewer-Clifton varying in price between £34 and £55 are also gently priced. Other
cult producers such as François Cotat, whose Sancerre ‘Les Culs de Beaujeu’ 2004
at £28 and Zind-Humbrecht, whose Brand Riesling 1996 comes in at £48. The marginally
obscure also features on the alternative list – this is what I mean by education.
A Brezeme white Rhône 2006 from J.M. Lombard at £27, Sylvaner “Sono Contento’ Vieilles
Vignes 2004 from Albert Selz and Akarua Pinot Gris 2006 from Central Otago at £23,
should satisfy the curious without breaking the bank.
On the red side, the additional red wine list hosts half a dozen red Burgundies of
varying appellations from Domaine Fourrier all at under £50 (must have been a good
job lot here), whilst Armand Rousseau’s Clos de la Roche 2001 at £75 is well worth
seeking out. On the Bordeaux side, a 2005 Margaux (de-classified Ch. Palmer) at £32
looks interesting. Ch. Branaire-Ducru 2000 is a lovely wine and just about ready
to drink and at £55 on a restaurant wine list represents good value. Ch. Haut-Brion
2001 at £240 may still be a little young to drink, so it’s probably worth spending
another tenner on the Ch. Palmer 1983 at £250, considered to be Palmer’s greatest
wine and one of the few Bordeaux châteaux that by universal consensus made a better
1983 than a 1982. (Which was damned good, anyway). In the Rhône, Domaine de Trevallon
1999 at £35 is as cheap as I have seen it anywhere, even cheaper than in some award
winning wine lists outside London. A double magnum of 1995 Pesquera at £190 should
be wonderful if you are thirsty, whilst Felciaino Bolgheri 2004 from Giovanni Chappini
at only £21 scores if you want real quality at a very gentle price. Californian reds
feature strongly on the list and whilst there are some big hitters (Harlan Estate
1999 at £250 and Shafer Hillside Select 1997 at £195), there is better value with
Ridge ‘Montebello’ 2002 at £90 and two Zinfandels of the same vintage from Turley
Cellars at £55.
There is a dessert wine list of almost 30 wines which gets trotted out with the dessert
menu, many of which are available by the 10cl. glass and half bottles and half litre
bottles abound. France dominates, but there are wines from Spain, Italy, Germany
and Austria, but surprisingly, nothing from the New World. A bottle of Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey
1988 at £45 looks good value but a 50cl. Monbazillac 2003 from Domaine de l’Ancienne
Cure at £22 might be even better. A half bottle of Don PX Gran Reserva 1979 from
Montilla-Moriles at £16 should be absolutely splendid and the Quinta da Noval Colheita
1986 Tawny Port in half bottles at £22.50 should satisfy those who want a little
bit more alcohol than just wine! Of course, there are vintage Ports of the sixties
and Ch. Yquem of the eighties for those who wish to indulge.
This a very personal list that Andrew Edmonds has put together and it must once again
be emphasised that it is constantly changing, but whatever is there - and you will
find established favourites sitting cheek by jowl with some really novel and exciting
wines – don’t be afraid to experiment here and don’t forget to look at the blackboard
for ‘specials’.
And what of the food? Well, as usual, this is not intended to be a critique of the
food, there are enough of those in print as well as on the internet. But the food,
cannot, of course, be ignored. As I have said at the beginning of this article, Andrew
has not set out to woo the smart set, nor is he craving for a Michelin star, but
his long-standing chef, Rebecca St. John Cooper, is producing very acceptable food
to accompany the wines he undoubtedly loves. On the occasions when I have been there,
the food has varied – some dishes were really great but some others were a little
disappointing and the service can be just as erratic. But it’s a busy place (you
certainly have to book for lunch and dinner) and the staff are sometimes under a
lot of pressure. The USP here are the wines and their prices, both for quality and
value and one should go there for that reason as a primary purpose, but the buzzy,
friendly atmosphere also counts for a lot.
Best Value White – Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru ‘Baudriotte’ 2001 Dom. Ramonet £95
MAGNUM
Best Value Red - Domaine du Trevallon 1999 – E. Durbach £35
Rich Man’s Bargain – Ch. Palmer 1983 - £250
Andrew Edmunds: 46 Lexington Street, London W1 020 7437 5708
Open Monday – Saturday for lunch and dinner. 12.5% ‘optional’ service charge is added
to the bill. All major credit cards taken. Reservations taken not more than one week
in advance.
