Abi Duhr of Ch. Pauqué - Luxembourg
Abi Duhr rightly has his reputation as the enfant terrible of Luxembourg wines -
and for good reason. Not for him the conventional, conservative and traditional winemaking
of his neighbours, he is always prepared to push to the limit to gain that extra
bit of quality out of all his wines.
Steeped in winemaking tradition and still responsible for final blending at the long-established
family vineyards (Domaines Aly Duhr), his main work is at his Ch. Pauqué, in the
picturesque village of Grevenmacher on the banks of the Mosel, which is 100% owned
by him. Château Pauqué is a small estate of about 5 ha which has vineyards spread
over 6 villages from Schengen to Wasserbillig. Two lines of wines are produced -
the classic one (Riesling & Pinot Gris) and one with Burgundian characteristics,
focused on wines fermented and aged in oak barrels. The grapes are normally harvested
from the beginning of October to mid November in order to get the best possible maturity.
The botrytised grapes do not see skin contact. Long fermentations, (the 2008 finished
their fermentations only in July 2009) with natural yeasts give Châeau Pauqué wines
a characteristic creamy harmony.
Over 70 % of the vineyards are located on the steepest hills of the Luxembourg Mosel
Valley. With over 50 % of Riesling (some of the vineyards have been planted more
than 60 years ago) the Châeau Pauqué Estate has one of the highest Riesling percentages
in Luxembourg. Additionally, Abi grows Elbling, Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris
and Chardonnay.
What sets Abi apart from other wine producers, is his inherent ability to make a
silk purse out of a sow’s ear - time and time again. He makes a large range of wines
- but just a few hundred bottles of each - starting with his entry level Bromelt,
made from the normally boring Elbling grape, but even here, he manages to give it
a “lift” like no one else has been able to do. A quintet of Rieslings starting with
wines from two different location - “Gravenmacher Fels” and “Paradäis”, show delicate
finesse and good length, with the “Gravenmacher Fels” showing more mineral characteristics
than the “Paradäis” which has a bit more citrussy fruit. The “Gravenmacher Fels”
is available in moelleux in the 2006 vintage, whilst there is a Veilles Vignes version
of the “Paradäis” with more intensity of fruit. A straight Veilles Vignes is also
made from vines planted in 1942 and here the wine reaches an apogée of class with
great spätlese characteristics which would make it a wonderful accompaniment to foie
gras. There is again a “Paradäis” Vendange Tardive, which does truly bring the wine
into an auslese quality.
Whilst Riesling can be said to be the mainstay of Mosel grapes, it’s what Abi achieves
with other, native and non-native grapes which is truly remarkable. Pinot Gris “Paradäis”
shows good varietal spiciness and “Fossiles” is another great blend of Pinot Blanc
and Auxerrois, nutty and with good length. It is in the treatment of the Auxerrois,
however, not normally noted for its noble character, which takes on a new dimension
under the “Clos du Paradäis” label. 100% Auxerrois with full, rich, nutty, intense
and creamy complexity, it is a masterpiece. And to see what can be done with Chardonnay
at so north a latitude, confusingly labelled just “Château Pauqué”, is smooth and
rich, but with a great tannic structure displaying perfect balance between the fruit
and the acidity. A new Chardonnay cuvée tasted en barriques (old ones at that) shows
great promise. Finally “Montée des Seigneurs” is a late harvest Auxerrois, smooth
and unctuous without being sickly sweet but an absolute must for drinking with your
puds!
Abi’s wines are not cheap, but you won’t see them anywhere except in the best places
- the best restaurants, the best wine shops and in the best homes - stop by and add
your home to the list - it’s a delightful trip to Grevenmacher, wherever you are
coming from.
Abi Duhr - Ch. Pauqué, 73 Route de Trèves, L 6793 Grevenmacher, Luxembourg.
Tel: 00352 75 84 17 Fax: 00352 75 88 20 Mobile: 00352 621 196 037
Abi Duhr at a Grand Jury Européen tasting
