Darroze
At the age of 69, Claude Darroze can still be found behind his "piano" in the kitchen
of his hotel-restaurant "Claude Darroze" in Langon, situated between the Graves and
the Sauternes wine areas, about 50km. south-east of Bordeaux.
For over 40 years, he has presided over a culinary family dynasty, including niece
Hélène Darroze, now making big noises in Paris and London. Of course, the cuisine
is a strongly influenced palette of Gascon and South West France flavours - traditional,
yes, but with some modern twists just to show that his cuisine is not atrophying.
There are three fixed price menus - a Menu Saison at €40, a Menu Saveur at €62 and
a Menu Tradition autour de la Truffe at @78. These menus have to be taken by the
whole table and as we really wanted to have a look at several dishes, we decided
to go for the A la Carte Menu. Apart from ordering the main dishes, you are also
obliged to order your dessert at the same time so that you wouldn't be too held up
at the end.
The menu is not large - six starters, four fish dishes and four meat dishes ensured
that what came out of the kitchen was very manageable. A ceviche of scallops with
shredded endive and apple in a light truffled cream was delicate and fine, whilst
the Lamprey with glazed leeks in a red wine sauce is something unique in the Bordeaux
area when in season. The leeks mopped up the concentrated red wine sauce as a perfect
accompaniment to the soft fleshed lamprey - a satisfying feeling. Calf's sweetbreads
simply braised in its own juice with wild mushrooms was delicate and perfectly cooked.
Local lamb cutlets and fillet simply roasted just past pink with a cocotte of little
vegetables was again a masterful statement of finesse and delicacy. For desserts,
a rather liquid chocolate gateau with praline ice cream was very tasty as were the
caramalised pears in puff pastry but the soufflé au Grand Marnier disappointed for
not having enough booze in it for us Brits!
The wine list, as one would expect, is strong on local wines, but there is a reasonable
selection of wines from other areas in France, but overall, prices are pretty stiff.
This is the second time we have eaten here - the last time we came we actually stayed
at the 15 bedroom hotel attached which has very reasonable room rates even though
the cost of eating there does bring up the average. But if you are visiting the wineries
in Sauternes or the Graves, it's one of the best local places to stay and eat.
Restaurant Ratings
Food 45
Wine List 15
Service 8
Ambience 4
Value for money 9
Total 81
(For an explanation of the ratings - click here)
Claude Darroze 95 Cours du Général Leclerc 33210 LANGON France
Telephone +33 5 56 63 00 48
Fax +33 5 56 63 41 15
Opening Hours: Lunch and dinner all week. Last orders 9.15 p.m. Closed 15th October
to 7th November and 5th to 21st January
Credit Cards: All major
