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Wines of the Month

 

Sarah Ahmed sings the praises of João Portugal Ramos

 

This year, the panel I chaired at Decanter World Wine Awards gave a Gold Medal and Regional Trophy to Tagus Creek Shiraz Trincadeira 2010 (see here for my write up). Thrillingly, it went on to scoop the International Trophy for a Red blend under £10, a real coup for Portugal and one of its great modernisers, João Portugal Ramos.

Over the last few weeks, for the purposes of updating Hugh Johnson Pocket Wine on Portugal, I’ve tasted hundreds of wines and the wines of one J Portugal Ramos have been a stand out. It would seem, once again, the cream rises to the top!

His Alentejo reds might not curry favour with traditionalists but, there and again, I reckon even they’d find it hard to resist their beautiful tannin management, fruit definition and impressive freshness and balance.

Here are my notes on the stand outs, the first of which – the new J Portugal Ramos Ramos Reserva – is on deal at Majestic, down to £6.99 from £8.49 until the end of January (though it seems to be out of stock online):

J Portugal Ramos Ramos Reserva 2010 (VR Alentejano)
With its seductive chocolate and violets, I could have sworn that this blend of Trincadeira, Aragones and Syrah featured Touriga Nacional. In the mouth it shows a fine melange of flavours, including Syrah’s blackberry and spice, Trincadeira’s rich dried fig and tobacco notes and Aragones’ raspberry fruit (Aragones is Spain’s Tempranillo). A super smooth finish reveals hints of milk chocolate, cinnamon and violets too. Super approachable and refined. 13.5%

Quinta da Vicosa Single Vineyard Syrah Trincadeira 2009 (VR Alentejano)
Ramos is a big fan of this combination which he likens to a Shiraz/Cabernet. It’s very lively in the mouth, with juicy, spicy red and black berry fruits, hints of bay leaf as well as richer dark chocolate notes. Super fine tannins make for an elegant finish. Very well made. 14%

J Portugal Ramos Marques de Borba 2010 (DOC Alentejo)
This blend of Aragones and Trincadeira is rich and ruffled, with a satisfying core of leaf and tobacco edged black plum, lifted blueberries and dried fig fruit. Powerful ripe tannins suggest this will happily keep for several years yet; pair with a hearty winter stew. Lovely, with a long, resonant finish. 14%

J Portugal Ramos Marques de Borba Reserva 2008 (DOC Alentejo)
For the flagship blend, Aragones and Trincadeira are blended with Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon, which bring backbone and heighten savouriness without losing definition. Indeed, there’s an impressive levity and focus to this intense, layered but linear wine, whose juicy blackberry and plum fruit is chastened by a frame of firm but ripe bony tannins. The long finish echoes with spice and tobacco long after the spit (or swallow!). 14%. Give it 2-3 years to loosen up and, meantime, no need to twiddle the taste buds – the other wines will keep you well satisfied!

More Portuguese recommendations to follow.

A fuller report on this can be found on Sarah's own website "The Wine Detective".