We continue our assessments on wine lists on the Celtic fringe by looking at Anglesey’s
other gem - the wine list at Ye Old Bull’s Head at Beaumaris.
Neville Blech reports:
With Anglesey being put into the public domain so emphatically via the royal wedding,
we thought it might be appropriate to feature one of Anglesey’s other little gems
– the wine list at Ye Old Bull’s Head Inn at Beaumaris. This historic inn, dating
from the 15th century, houses two restaurants – the Brasserie and the more formal
Loft Restaurant, but the wine list is available in both places.
It’s not a long list and choices are conservative – so there is nothing from South
America or Eastern Europe, for example, nor are there any “natural wines” and biodynamics
hardly get a look in. Choices, however, are sound, and more than half the list is
populated by wines that merit three stars or more. But the outstanding feature is
the gentleness of the prices, with decidedly non-greedy mark ups.
Red Bordeaux’s for example are outstanding value for money, with Chx. Talbot 2001
(£49.50), Ducru-Beaucaillou 1997 (£76.50) and Pichon-Longueville-Lalande 1999 (£82.00),
barely above retail price and Ch. Margaux 1993 £(150.00) at around half the price
you can buy it in a shop these days. In Sauternes, Ch. Rabaud-Promis 1989 (£42.50)
is significantly under current retail price.
There is good value in Beaujolais with Chignard’s 3 star Fleurie “Les Moriers”
2008 coming in at only £21.00 and the 2 star Morgon 2005 from Domaine de la Chaponne
at £18.45. Burgundies, both red and white are well priced, but perhaps not as quite
well priced as the clarets. Here the outstanding red would be the Beaune 1er Cru
Clos du Roi 2005 from Lucien Camus-Bruchon at £37.50 and the 4.5 star Chablis Grand
Cru “Les Clos” 2002 from Jean-Paul Droin at £43.50 in the whites.
There is not a great deal of excitement in the Loire whites, but the 2.5 star Saumur-Champigny
2005 from the Ch. de Hureau at £18.00 has an excellent price/quality ratio. The Rhône,
however, produces a plethora of good value reds, all of which may be chosen with
confidence. Top picks here are the 3 star Crôzes-Hermitage 2007 from Domaine Remizières
at £20.25 and the 5 star PLUS Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2001 from the Domaine du Vieux
Télégraphe at only £40.00, which is about what you would expect to pay for it in
a shop. The 3 star white St. Joseph 2006 from André Perret at £25.00 is also excellent
value.
Champagnes are fairly priced, with the ever reliable Vilmart, 3.5 stars at £35.50
looking best, whilst the Alsace section sports a Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Kitterlé
2005 from the excellent (and yes, biodynamic) Dirler-Cadé estate at £27.00.
There is a small selection of high quality Italian reds, all of which merit mention
as being great value for money. You could plump for any of these, but my eye was
really caught by the 5 star Monferrato “Pin” 2000 from Las Sp;inetta at £38.50, it
should be drinking beautifully now. It’s a pity that the list lacks any Tuscan wines
– a good one from there would have made this section a real jewel. Italian whites
do not really come up to the standard of the reds. The Spanish section has the 4.5
star Cuvée Palomar 2003 from Abadia Retuerta at £31.50 standing head and shoulders
over the rest. The German section contains a reasonable selection of Rhine and Moselle
whites but no reds. The Riesling Spätlese Bernkasteler Graben 1997 from J. J. Prüm
looks to be good value at £26.50.
New world wines are relatively modest in aspiration with a few notable exceptions.
Australian reds include the 5 star Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2004 at £45.00
and the 3.5 star Mount Horrocks Shiraz 2007 at £28.00 which to me are equally rated
quality/price ratios. The whites include the 3 star Cape Mentelle Sémillon/Sauvignon
Blanc 2004 very well priced at £23.50.
Californian reds have Cline Cellars’ 4 star Small Berry Mourvèdre 2006 exceptionally
priced at £29.00, whilst the Dominus Estate 1998 is being listed at around the current
retail price in the shops at £98.50. The 4 star Chardonnay Cuvée Arthur 2007 from
Domaine Drouhin is even better priced at £25.95.
There are some top New Zealand reds listed with Ata Rangi’s 3.5 star Célèbre the
pick for value at £26.00. In the whites, the choice rests between the 2.5 star Chardonnay
2007 from Mud House and the 3 star Pinot Gris from Amisfield at £28.00
Half bottles are not forgotten with 9 reds and 10 whites including a half bottle
of the above mentioned Ch. Rabaud Promis at £24.50 but for the 1986 vintage. Another
great dessert white (one of Australia’s finest) is the 4.5 star Mount Horrocks Late
Harvest Riesling 2008 at £28.00. Best value dry half seems to be the 3 star Sancerre
2007 from Henri Natter at £12.75. In the reds, apart from a 2006 Fleurie “Les Moriers”
from Chignard at £10.75 (although you might check to ask how well it is still drinking),
the Chianti Classico, Castello di Fonterutoli 2006 at £14.50, looks a good bet for
the price.
There are two red and two white House wines which are sold by the bottle (£19.50),
50cl. Carafe (£13.00) or 175ml. glass (£4.90). All are sound and the best quality
one on the current list appears to be the 3 star Omrah Pinot Noir 2008 from the Plantagenet
Winery in Western Australia. It is certainly a great price for the quality.
This is probably not the most exciting or adventurous list in the land, but most
of the wines on offer are tried and trusted favourites and it would be hard to find
a dud. On the other hand, there are a goodly number of wines that offer exceptional
drinking value and this is clearly a must stop destination for anyone touring North
Wales or on their way to catch the ferry to Dublin from Holyhead.
This was one of the most difficult wine lists to choose a “best buy”. There were
so many with a superb quality/price ratio, but in the end, I had to choose
Best value White wine: Chardonnay Cuvée Arthur 2007 – Domaine Drouhin, Oregon £25.95
Best value Red wine: Monferrato Rosso “Pin” 2000 – La Spinetta, Piedmont, Italy
£38.50
Rich man’s bargain: Ch.Margaux 1er Grand Cru Classé 1993 £150.00.
Ye Old Bull’s Head Inn
Castle Street
Beaumaris
Anglesey LL58 8AP
Tel: 01248 810329
The Loft Restaurant
